I found this a delightful puzzle with so many clever thematic clues. Finished earlier than usual: just used CrosswordSolver once on penultimate clue, 23d, which then led to LOI 24d over which we'd been puzzling without spotting the should-have-been-obvious wordplay!
Was puzzled by 5d, trying to fit an anagram involving "seek" but decided it was just two definitions.
FOI: 25a
LOI: 24d
COD: 12a for a brilliant anagram, or 20 for a clever plain definition which didn't look like one!