As with last week finally finished on Sunday morning. This time due solely to how tough I found it and the number of visits both here and to the puzzle itself. But as ever, I always enjoy a challenge more than a write-in. Just too many obscure words for my vocabulary range. But alongside that, anyone prepared to reawaken the memory of 27a deserves special praise so thanks to Enigmatist for that in particular.
A special mention to the theme as well. To weave that in took some doing and it's why 30a gets my COD vote.