I started this on the train yesterday afternoon without any reference materials and finished it this morning. It didn't take me any longer than some other puzzles. But it was quite different, whether unreasonably or not.
Firstly, it seemed to break the guidance given to setters. I reckon there are more than a normal number of unchecked cells (48) and the unclued entries compound that difficulty. Add to that the entries pieced together from disparate letters from several answers with 'the first part entered somewhere', and in practice, although it was possible to start filling the grid before solving all the clues, the lack of cross checking meant that most clues had to be nearly or entirely cold-solved. Is it actually a crossword in the normal sense?
Secondly, I wasn't enamoured of either the quality of the clues, nor the entry method. There were few elegant clues but an over-reliance on proper names, both in the clues and the answers. I would pick out the random Irish name and the French river that this much-travelled, one-time resident of France had not come across.
Considering the few constraints to the placement of particular letters, it did not seem to me to be a particularly well constructed grid. The grouping of unclued entries was particularly unhelpful. It was certainly a pain keeping track of odds and ends of letters.
Overall, I felt it was just all too contrived and in some respects not in the spirit of the guidance that the essence of a Listener crossword is 'elegance and subtlety of theme and clueing, not difficulty per se' and without 'gratuitous obstacles'.
Obviously the editors felt it was a worthy Listener crossword, and several contributors to this forum enjoyed it, but personally I prefer something more entertaining.