Thanks to Brendan.
I found this on the gentle side but was eating and didn't record solving time. Sufficient challenge was provided by a couple of new words (derivable from wordplay but requiring confirmation) and several very tricky parsings. It helped to go into "US crossword solving mode": write in solutions and parse later, with 5a being a prime example. Agreed on surfaces.
FOI 9.
LOI also 18, which also could have been found earlier. It's my COD runner-up after the (potentially geeky) laureate 15 (due to the witty linking of 7 and 15). Other contenders 23, 1, 2, 19, 3 and 5d.