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I've been on holiday (Egypt was original plan but that was cancelled after sitting for 3 hours on the plane - even made the Manchester Evening News!), so went to Naples, Rome and Pompeii/Vesuvius instead.

I've got solutions to 20A and 21D but I can't parse them, everything else was straightforward (although it took me a long time to get cracking on the SE corner).

I was also aware that 11 and 23 were anagrams of each other but totally forgot about that until much later on ;) So those were my favourite clues I think.