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Phew, 21a LOI, a good one.

Other likes include:
9a, 11a, 15a, 17a, 8d, 14d, 23d, 24d.

Having completed, I would say 21a is COD, for being fiendish.

11a and 17a were prior contenders.

It didn't help at all to notice Vlad has 'Dal' rejected :-) and being obsessed with it.

21a still escapes me.
The definition in 9a is incorrect says my ophthalmologist friend.

I’ll take some solace in getting 21 right away, which makes up a bit for the several I haven’t been able to parse yet.

I've made peace with most of the clues after initial parsing problems. But I can't for the life of me see 1ac. I have an answer which assumes the definition is the first two words, but can't parse a single letter from the rest of the clue ... any ideas?

H Plutocrat,
Very quick time is 5 letters inside 3 letter house from South of France (perhaps obscure, but it’s in Chambers).

I too am stalled on 21a.
Some lovely clues. My favourites 4d and 7d.
I agree that the definition for 9a is just wrong.
5d is another odd one. The usual definition of "temper" in this context is exactly the opposite, but I suppose in can also mean this solution.

Thanks for answering that Jono I was in the same boat as Plutocrat. The word is used a lot in the South of France often for restaurants. I was looking for a Latin music abbreviation for quick time. Nowhere near.

Thanks for confirming that Rocky. I also went down the music route!

Chris, 21a is hidden in the clue (though not in the most obvious of ways).