Finally done. Thanks for all your help. I started thinking this one wasn't Paul's best effort because 7d and 14a were my first two and not my favourite clues. I know some don't like Paul so probably gave up but I would urge you to persevere. There is some brilliant misdirection. My LOI 19a being one. And as everyone has said some tricky (but not unfair) parsing. I felt with a few clues he was being inclusive to US solvers here. The baseball reference and the card game for example.
Ultimately a very enjoyable but tough solve. Thanks Paul. A welcome return.
COD I can't get past 29a but the two cool places have to get a mention for the groan factor.