Hi both
I agree with you teenieleek that it's quite a slog to go through cold solving so many clues for so little obvious reward. So you definitely need to set aside a chunk of time for that.
I managed to do that and, with hazarding an informed guess with the first 7-letter down answer in the grid (there aren't that many 7-letter clues and, as it turnded out, two are thematically shorter), managed to get a toehold and the rest of the grid didn't take too long. One of those puzzles I enjoyed in retrospect....thanks to Bungo ( a new setter?)