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Thanks, ginge and muraria, relieved I’m not going mad. Unfortunate given the clue in question

But then, as per the preamble, the first two letters of 18a serve as part of the one of the two routes and thus, the row comprises three real words....

That’s perfectly true. My only issue was with the construction of 18a. But for is 3, no charge is 2 (one extra), and Mrs gives only 3 of the remaining 5. Unless there’s an alternative I’m missing

Maybe in 18a the “but” clues first three letters, and “for” clues those missing two. But it’s a bit of a stretch!

I considered that, g9p. But Chambers gives “but for” directly as a definition of the 3 letters, and the requirement to use a synonym for “for” in the anagrist was a step too far for me!

Hi. I have a virtually full grid and most of message, think my shading looks right, but no penny has dropped yet. Can't see any words in diagonals.
Can I have a steer on 31a German boy returning in minstrel gear. I've spotted it's (4) not (3).
Also help with extra letters in 13a and 21d would be great.

Lumen, 31 A is a hidden in the clue answer - ignoring an extra letter.

Lumen, in 13 A, the answer has the usual 'states' inside an abbreviation for ('little) 'market', not an abbreviation I've ever seen. The extra letter comes from that abbreviation.

Hi Lumen - the 7 letter word starts in the second column going SW to NE direction, and the 5 letter word starts on the bottom row, goung NE as well, of couse!

I had penny drop at 9.00, very nice.
Lawn mower blades were no longer of interest to me. This was something much bigger.
Found diagonals.
Can't see second entry route yet but I'm feeling pretty satisfied.