Completely stuck in SW corner!
20a One that's not settled in retirement home (4,4) ???Y / ????
23a Italian town: I am very fond of it, returning with no end of pleasure (6)
Doh! I went to Tivoli twice last summer. The Villa d'Este was better than I thought it could possibly be, and the "Villa Adrianna" is a massive Roman site (bigger than Pompeii)