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POrthwick, you are correct. 'troops' (3) with a 'hill' before and after.

Thank you Mattrom. I don’t know why I didn’t see it before.

One left to do - 15a (one of the silver clues)

Soprano left at sea in grand chant (8)

I have S_NG, feels like it should be easy but I can't see it !

Hi Thom
The wordplay is Soprano, left at sea, in, grand. 1,4,2,1.
Hope this helps.

Wow. It’s a long time since we’ve had a workout like that!

Really satisfying, thanks Ifor.

I so enjoyed this that I took 2 days working on it, when often I am tempted to give up. So again, thank you ifor - loved it.

Thank you! I was losing my mind trying to figure out an anagram of left. Feels so obvious now ha ha ha

A truly amazing puzzle from Ifor, a masterpiece of construction. How much thematic material can you get into a 13x13 grid?! As a fully paid up member of the awkward squad, I completed the west side of the grid first; but that’s by the bye.