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All done except for the so far not mentioned 17a. Many thanks, as always, for the many hints and suggestions from you all. A great puzzle and worth perseverance as many of you say. A hint to help me complete will be much appreciated. Thanks again.

Re 17, the test is one for cars, with single letters either side.

Cheers Jono,

3 to go - 15 is the def birds or bread?

dismantledking, it's birds

Finished, with just a little help from nudges in the forum, thanks.
FOI: 1
LOI: 29
COD: 14

Got off to a flying start with 1a, 2d ... then slowed down, with 5 left in SE corner for ages.

Need help on 12a pls (last one). Can see the answer and first 2 letters, but can't see how to get from guest (without g) to the remaining letters. Guest house, I could have managed, but why just guest?

Amatuerstick, the country is in UK surrounded bu the letters you suggest. Definition "links"

Thanks redpete. I had taken cross-country as UN.

15D. Are they common or garden birds?

Think I have it but can't parse first 3 letters! Any help much appreciated. Am enjoying it but it's tough going!