Wow!! This was a real struggle 🤪
I know I nearly always say this but, with this particular offering by Paul, after 10 minutes I hadn't got a single answer!
As is often the way though, once one goes in, a few more follow and....
Anyone looking for an easy anagram to get started will be sorely disappointed - I only counted one!
There are a couple I haven't fully parsed, namely 7d and 21d - though the answers are clear.
COD - I'm going to split it between 1,22a which did make me laugh and 11a which has a beautiful surface.
I look forward to reading what everyone else made of it.
Stay safe:-)