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I think that 18 across should have been a definition only clue despite the cryptic part.

How does 33a work please?
Reversed cross hatch, say (4) ROOD seems to fit ...but the clue seems the wrong way round ??

E wondered about that as well. It would work better with reversed after hatch. Just about to see if I can find what needs highlighting.

I can only see 15 definition-only clues....maybe 11a ‘Wallop maker’ is one, and then 18a as suggested by you, always puzzled.
But I don’t see the answer for 18a.

Lumen, 11 A is one. 18 A is also a treated entry, though there's wordplay in it. To be properly thematic, 'French province' would have done as the clue.

Aa Lumen suggested 18a is one of the 17 but is seems to be a (helpful) hybrid. The definition needs treating thematically but the wordplay gives the modified form. That helped me,along with 20d, to find out what needed doing to the definition-only clues.I can relate to the title but do not fancy grid staring for the theme as it is now unnecessary.

Ionexch ... not mush grid staring ...2 6 letter words symmetrically placed

Beginning to suspect a word we forgot about due to Corona

Thanks Xwordfan. I guessed as much as it is back in the headlines and as a German taxpayer I don't like what I am reading!

Am similarly confused with 33ac - cannot parse it.

18a is just plain wrong: should be, as per below, French province.

Solution would have been more satisfactory had entries been real words as per 30a/20d IMHO...