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Look for a letter which is in column 1 twice(for beginning and end) and similarly for the other 7 of the same letter ....symmetrical in the grid...malone has guided you to the letter change......see what letter would work..... then the penny will drop!

Glad I could help (if I did!) and glad you got there, Jogamel.

Presumably we have to replace the five cells with their Greek equivalents....upper case ?

Muraria, I don't know if it's upper case, but I'm going with what's in Chambers.

Thanks Malone, hadn't spotted it in Chambers...it's UC.

My Chambers (10th) only has the word spelling with a 'Y' not a 'U'.
Does this matter?

My Chambers (12th) has the same - but we're changing it anyway.

Just spotted that I don't have the last letter of 32 across. None of the possible words seem to match the clue.

32 puzzled me too for a while! It's a strange (to me) word for Brilliant and the beginning goes to the end, to give an American gambler/person.

I wouldn't have completed this without help. So yes, you all helped and I have now decided to celebrate by going out for a walk. The cold wind might refresh my brain. Thanks again.