Syzygy: i've only just caught up on your correspondence, and I think you are possibly missing something. the key lies not in changing the letters, but in recognizing the French white wine already indicated (with the final "s"); then you have also the third group of famous sites where you find many ****** ! Hope this helps you. I imagine the letter change you mention was not really intended & is purely coincidental. I don't follow the talk about the geographical region, either -- unless you mean the country where all the gr.... & areas can be found --- but that HAS to be a certain country I love, now, doesn't it.................
Please correct me if you now think I'm on the wrong track myself! It took me a long time yesterday, but looking back I find it one of the neatest puzzles for a long time.