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Hmm, done all the clued lights but 18d. Have a similar feeling to xwordman that I've done something wrong...the seven unclued ones seem a weird mixture of words.

18d CA RA MEL

Dark brown is the definition & word play is arab inside an animal.
"X" is a puzzle???????????

Yes, I got dk brown just before looking. Thanks. SL, is that meant to be a clue? I.e. the number of question marks?

No-not a clue! I'm stuck now - I'm wondering what "X" in the preamble means?

Have you made a guess at what 1d might be? I've tried searching for famous quotes and found one by Dickens, but that doesn't help with the Xs. Some of the unclued lights can only be one thing, e.g. the nautical term in 22A, but the words seem totally random!

Agree with 22a. Guessing at (5,5) for 1d but can't find a quote yet.

OK, good to know I haven't made some huge error. Agree about 5,5 for 1D. So many possibilities for the second word though!

Perhaps X is some kind of instruction (3 words) relating to the unclued words - hard to see what at the moment!

K over on Abank says ' 7 anagrams of dogs'!