Does the journey begin with a 3-letter inlet from the bottom left of the grid?
Have you found an old word for a road crossing an island?
The grid-fill was easy but the endgame is harder.
Where do the beans come into 35a?
Steal a taste of sailor's kippers and beans? (7) I have NAP??RS with possibly E for 5th letter
The rocky inlet could be 4 letters in the bottom left ?
I agree about the INLET appearing anagrammed in Col 1. THE OLD ROAD can be traced from the lowest letter of the INLET. But that's where I'm stuck. Since THE OLD ROAD leads directly from INLET it seems likely that the tree (or maybe A TREE) leads directly from the end of THE OLD ROAD. But I can see no tree there which I can recognize.